Nothing strikes fear into the heart of an eventgoer quite like "black tie dress code." It's essentially the vogue version of, "We need to talk." The mystery-shrouded theme can cause drama if misinterpreted, sparking mounting stress in even the coolest man's brain.
But avoiding a fashion faux pas is easier than you think, even when the dreaded "black tie" invite hits your inbox.
From the dress code's definition to the classic black tie look to the common mistakes to avoid, the following sections demystify this suit-donning conundrum.
What Does Black Tie Actually Mean?
We have the 20th century to thank for the head-scratching black tie dress code. As the century of extremes progressed, dinner jackets and black bow ties became a less regular adornment, showing up mainly at special events. Thus, black tie events became associated with glamor and, naturally, Hollywood.
Over time, the black tie has lost some of its formality. However, the dress code remains a popular choice for hosts of events, such as weddings, work balls, charity galas, and similar occasions. If you see the words "black tie," you can guarantee the event is an important one!
Despite its formality and elegance, the black tie dress code isn't as rigid or formal as white tie. In fact, it's exactly one step down on the formality scale.
White tie events require full evening dress (think tailcoat, piqué shirts, and waistcoats) and are reserved for prestigious, ultra-formal occasions. Black tie events, on the other hand, are reserved for formal-to-semi-formal occasions and requires a tuxedo, rendering typical suits inappropriate.
The Classic Black Tie Outfit for Men
To ensure you meet the dress code in every aspect, here's everything you'll need to don for a black tie event:
The Dinner Jacket (Tuxedo)
The tuxedo (a.k.a., the dinner suit) is by far the most traditional (and smartest, in our opinion) black tie jacket. Typically worn in black or midnight blue. Matching trousers with a satin side stripe and you’re o away at the races (or black tie ball)
The Shirt
Dress shirts are the only shirt fit for a black tie event. Aim to pick a white one with a Marcella bib front, French cuffs, and turndown collar.
The Bow Tie
You can't head to a black tie event without a bow tie. Choose a self-tied option for best results. However clip-on bow ties save the day.
Accessories
Top it off with a smart watch and pocket square for the perfect splash of glamour.
Footwear
Shoes make or break your look. So, ensure you land on the "make" side by choosing black, patent shoes that are polished and free from scuffs. If you don’t own black patent leather then brushed leather oxfords will do. In black!!
The Modern Black Tie Look
The black tie outfit is timeless and steeped in tradition, but modern interpretations of this classic allow you to meet the dress code while adding a touch of personality. Think slimmer fits, subtle colours, and even velvet dinner jackets!
Common Black Tie Mistakes to Avoid
Whether you opt for a traditional black tuxedo or want to experiment with modern interpretations, there are some common mistakes that you must avoid when dressing to impress at your next black tie do:
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Regular suits: There's a huge formality gulf between a day suit and a tuxedo. Wearing a typically suit for a black tie event isn't going to cut it. You may find that underdressed is an understatement if you do.
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Mixing formal with casual: Don't pair a fitness tracker with a black tie outfit.
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Wearing non-formal shoes: Another no-no!
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Choosing colourful bow ties: You don't want your to bow tie to stand out at these events. Opt for black or midnight blue, depending on the colour of your dinner jacket.
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Muddling event timings: If you're hosting a black tie event, remember that it is decidedly evening wear. Morning events don't typically qualify. 6pm is the traditional cut off for an evening event to begin.
Black Tie VS Other Dress Codes
Understanding the differences between black tie and other dress codes ensures you don't accidentally dress for a different event.
Black Tie VS Formal/White Tie
Black tie may be formal evening wear, but white tie cranks the formality up a notch. Sometimes, it's called "evening tails" or "full evening dress" and is the most formal dress code. You won't see these events often, as they're generally reserved for royalty, nobility, and those in high social standing.
If you are invited to such an event, don an evening tailcoat, matching trousers, a white evening shirt with a wing collar and bib, white waistcoat, and a white hand-tied silk/cotton pique bow tie.
Black Tie VS Cocktail Attire
Unlike a black tie event where a tuxedo is expected, cocktail attire simply requires a suit. As such, it's considered less formal than black tie, dressier than business, and smarter than smart casual. While this could mean different things to different people, view it as a way to show off your creativity.
For example, wear a blazer that's cut from completely different fabric to the trousers or choose a knitted polo in a dramatic colour.
Black Tie Optional: What It Really Means
Perhaps more confusing than the black tie dress code, is the black tie optional dress code. While hosts may have a different interpretation of this phrase, it typically means the organiser wants black tie, but they don't want to pressure their guests into wearing tuxedos, as they tend to be pricier. So, go for the tuxedo or a dark suit; the choice is yours.
How to Rent or Buy a Black Tie Outfit
Buying a black tie suit gives you access to professional tailoring that ensures comfort, long-lasting quality, and a perfect fit so you can feel your best. However, tuxedos are notoriously expensive, so if you don't have the budget or are unlikely to attend such events frequently, renting from us at Rathbones Tailor will ensure you receive an expertly crafted suit complete with bow tie and never-too-baggy trousers to guarantee you meet the dress code.
Final Tips for Nailing the Black Tie Look
By keeping it timeless, understated, and focusing on the fabric (silk lapels!) and fit, you'll nail the black tie look every single time. No more stressing over invitations' dress codes.