The modern age has made fashion more global than ever before. So much so that it's difficult to imagine a single country staking claim on a tailoring style. However, suits aren't a trend brought forth by the great digital era. TikTok and Instagram can't take ownership of this tried-and-true fashion statement. Rather, they're imbued with tradition and have gradually evolved over time to fit the men who don them.
Throughout the years, three distinct tailoring styles have emerged; the British, the Italian, and The American. We're going to journey through each of them, understanding the distinctions and, ultimately, ensuring you choose your best style.
The British Suit: Tradition and Structure
Ultra-structured and highly tailored spring to mind when considering the British suit. Boasting defined shoulders and stiff canvas, it oozes control, offering an aesthetic that withstands the gruelling test of time. It was made for nobility and the military elite, after all.
But let's take a look at where it all began.
Origins of British Tailoring
The British/English suit style originates from Savile Row, a famous London street synonymous with custom tailoring, thanks to Henry Poole's innovative designs.
While Poole served numerous members of high society, the Prince of Wales (Edward VII) is perhaps the most notable. In 1860, this royal commissioned a short, tailless evening jacket fit for informal dinner parties. And unbeknownst to him at the time, he had just requested the very first tuxedo. The same style we adore today. It was this tailless jacket (and its many iterations) that changed British menswear forever.
Defining Characteristics
British suit jackets boast thick shoulder pads, narrow sleeves with high armholes, functional buttons, and a stiff canvas. The front tends to showcase a ticket pocket, while the back has a double vent.
On the bottom, British suit trousers are not too tight nor too loose. They're high-waisted, have pleats, and are slim with a quarter or half break ( where the trouser meets the shoe)
Cultural Influence
Royalty made the British suit iconic. Today's designers take inspiration from overseas, but the traditional get up was influenced early by the previously mentioned King Charles II. He mandated all men attending English Court must wear a waistcoat, long coat, knee breeches, a cravat, and a hat.
The Italian Suit: Elegance and Flair
With their slim-fit, jetted-pocketed, high-armhole design, Italian suits effortlessly represent the nation's style. One that shuns the stiff and structured cut of the British for a more elegant affair.
Evolution of Italian Style
The Italian suit started life much more recently than English tailoring. It began in the 19th century when the country's fashion industry was emerging. Giovanni Battista Giorgini established the first Italian fashion house in 1854, kickstarting an accelerated industry growth that continued in the 20th century. Ever since, the country's tailoring has been renowned for its elegance and sophistication.
Defining Characteristics
The Italian suit jacket and lightness go hand in hand. It's short, fits tightly, and is far less structured than the British jacket. As such, the cloth follows the body's natural curves, with only light padding in the shoulders. Couple that with the pronounced V-shape at the waist and it screams elegance.
As for the trousers, they also follow the sleek silhouette, affording a smooth look throughout. They fit tight on the hips with a tapered waist and traditionally ends with one break (although no-break styles are more common these days).
Cultural Influence
Italian suits represent their men's flair, flamboyance, and aesthetic. They're more fashion-forward than their American alternatives and less stiff and structured than their British cousins. Effortlessly stylish.
The American Suit: Practicality and Comfort
Low relaxed armholes, roomier torso, and generous, full cut sleeves pay homage to the US' desire for comfort and practicality. Straight, softer silhouettes distinguish this sack suit style from the rest.
The Birth of the Sack Suit
The roaring '20s is where the American suit style began. Two key events kickstarted the wave of suiting across the nation. Men had more disposable cash and mass-production methods made suits cheaper. Together, these happenings boosted demand and eventually saw Brooks Brothers deliver the era's most iconic suit, the sack suit, which quickly became the go-to attire for American businessmen and Ivy League goers.
Defining Characteristics
The American suit jacket features a straight, loose fit, and a soft silhouette that boasts light shoulder pads, low armholes, loose sleeves, and a single-breasted, non-darted jacket with one vent.
As for the trousers, they are full cut with no pleats. The fabric generosity extends to the ankles, where you'll usually see a full break.
Cultural Influence
Comfort was the overarching theme when designing the American suit, as that's what American men desired and still do to some degree. But with this comfort and practicality comes much less style than the elegant Italian and structured British suit.
Which Suit Style Should You Choose?
Choosing the right suit style means thinking about your body type, the occasion, and the general aesthetic you want to portray.
For socials and parties, an Italian suit offers the modern, sleek, and stylish look you may be after. For business meetings, professional settings, and formal occasions, a British suit provides the classic formality required. And for everyday wear, casual settings, and comfort, choose the American suit.
Rathbones Roundup
There's more than enough room in the fashion world for all three suit types but knowing the differences helps you select the perfect suit for you. And if you're ready to hire a suit for a party, wedding, black tie event or another special occasion, you've already found the perfect place with us at Rathbones Tailor.