Choosing the perfect suit is more than finding a desirable design and material. It involves selecting the best fit for your body type. This alone can make or break your look, regardless of the brand, cost, or colour.
So, let's ensure you make the right choice every time. You deserve to look your best, after all.
Why Suit Fit Matters
Your suit is your first impression — and everyone knows you don't get a second chance at it. Wearing a perfectly fitted suit is your one-way ticket to ultra-polished appearance and, consequently, an ideal first impression.
But it isn't just about appearance.
Suit fit dictates your comfort. A badly fitted suit can negatively impact your posture and movement throughout the day, leaving you uncomfortable just a few hours into your busy schedule. Spending the time selecting the right fit for your body type will ensure you stand tall, move well, and remain comfortable, no matter what.
If you're thinking that an expensive suit will negate the importance of fit, think again. Splashing thousands on a high-end suit won't hide a bad fit. In fact, it can make your expensive suit look cheap — not ideal. Whether you're buying or hiring, fit remains the most crucial factor.
The Different Suit Fit Types Explained
Understanding suit fits is essential for ensuring you always look your best. You know it's important; now, let's make sure you can spot the differences.
Regular Fit Suit
If a traditional silhouette is what you're searching for, a regular fit suit is the answer. With more fabric to move in, you're offered utmost comfort in the shoulders, chest, waist, and legs, ensuring smooth movement throughout the day. This classic style perfectly fits casual, business casual, and semi-formal events.
Typically, regular fit suits flatter those with larger builds or men who'd rather leave their figure to onlookers' imaginations. Just keep in mind that it can look boxy on slimmer builds, due to its roomier nature.
Tailored Fit Suit
Tailored fit suits sit between regular and slim fit options. It's timeless and structured, boasting slight waist suppression without compromising in comfort. The clean lines afford you a stylish silhouette, and it's this factor that's boosting their popularity for weddings and business wear.
As for the trousers, they're fuller in the thigh with a slightly tapered hem, finishing the suit smartly.
Although this sleek, modern fit flatters most body types, it's best suited for men with a 40"+ chest, typically rocking average or athletic builds.
The only potential downside? It isn't as relaxed as regular fit.
Slim Fit Suit
Slim fit suits cut closer to your body, following your natural contours without being overly restrictive. They're tighter than the aforementioned tailored fit, providing a contemporary over classical appearance. The defining characteristic is the telltale tapering effect wherein the fabric narrows gradually from the shoulders to the chest, waist, and trousers.
Fabric reduction is most noticeable across the chest, waist, armholes, sleeves, thighs, and leg opening, but don't let it fool you. This style may be form-flattering, but that doesn't mean it's ultra-uncomfortable.
The sharp silhouette and fashion-forward appearance lend itself well for younger professionals and guests of modern weddings. You may not move as smoothly while wearing it, but you'll certainly look the part.
That said, for broader body shapes, we would recommend a different cut, as slim fits are less forgiving and best suited for thinner builds.
Skinny Fit Suit
As its name suggests, it doesn't get more fitted than the skinny fit suit. With an extremely narrow cut throughout, it contours to your every curve and line, leaving little to the imagination. In shirts and jackets, it's narrow across the chest and arms, while in trousers, it's tight on the hips, legs, and waist, creating a sleek, elongated silhouette — perfect for trend-focused, fashion-forward dressers.
Its contemporary nature makes it less versatile than tailored or slim fit suits. But what it lacks in versatility it makes up for in modernness; there's simply nothing trendier than a skinny fit garment.
It's ideal for very slim frames, provided you select the right size. Choosing carelessly could restrict your movement, causing discomfort.
Which Suit Fit is Best for Your Body Type?
Every body is different — and so are style preferences. But loving a certain fit doesn't necessarily mean it will elevate your look. Selecting suits made for your body type is the quickest way to achieve a striking appearance.
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Slim builds — Your body is built for slim fit suits that show off your physique without restricting movement. We'd recommend staying away from regular fits, as they may turn you boxy. But if you're very slim, try a skinny fit suit for a modern approach to suit donning.
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Athletic builds — Tailored fit suits work wonders for lean but muscular builds. That said, slim fit suits also work well.
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Short body — Long legs with short bodies should opt for a regular or slim fit suit. If you're also very slim, you could opt for a skinny fit suit for a super-sleek appearance.
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Tall and lean builds — Regular fit suits are a staple for tall and lean builds. Tailored suits may also be an option, depending on the event you're attending.
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Broad or heavyset builds — Heavyset builds benefit from regular fit suits. They'll create a V-shaped look to elongate your torso and make a great first impression.
How Should a Suit Jacket Fit?
The shoulders are the most important factor of a suit jacket. They should sit flat without pulling or wrinkling, with the sleeve seam aligning with the natural edge of your shoulder. If you see any of the following, the shoulders don't fit correctly:
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Wrinkling/pulling in the upper chest
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Shoulder padding extending beyond your natural shoulder
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Tight feeling when moving your arms
But shoulders aren't the only integral feature — length plays a role, too.
Traditionally, the jacket should cover the seat, falling approximately halfway between the collar and the floor. A quick test to check the length is — the jacket should end around the middle of your thumb when your arms hang naturally.
The sleeves should allow 1-1.5cm of shirt cuff to peek out beyond the jacket sleeve. This small but mighty detail crafts a clean look and indicates the suit has been properly tailored.
How Should Suit Trousers Fit?
Suit trousers should be comfortable on the waist without a belt holding them up. The fabric at the seat should lie smoothly, without excessive pulling across the back. As for the break (i.e., how the trousers kiss the shoes), a slight break (the fabric lightly touches the top of your shoes) is a classic option.
Common Suit Fit Mistakes to Avoid
Before purchasing or hiring a suit, be sure to check these common fit mistakes to avoid missing the mark:
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Shoulder seams not aligning with natural shoulders
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Jacket collar not sitting flush with the shirt collar
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Chest and lapels failing to lie flat
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X-shaped wrinkles at the waist
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Jacket not covering your seat
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Trousers only fitting with a belt
Suit Fits Explained
The fit can make or break your suit choice. Even the most expensive suits can ruin your outfit if you select poorly. So, take care not to fall into this trap by sticking to our advice above and choosing Rathbones Tailors for your next event. Remember: whether hiring a suit or buying, fit is imperative.