For a long time, the dinner jacket has been at the heart of men’s formal wear. Men’s dinner jackets are worn when a man needs something sophisticated. You’ll often find them at black tie events, but other events may demand the sophistication that a dinner jacket offers.
In this article, we’re going to take a deep dive into the dinner jacket. We’ll look at the history, how these jackets differ from other formal jackets, and even give a few tips on styling yourself properly with them. Even if you’ve not worn a dinner jacket before, this page should give you a good grounding on where they best work.
What Is a Dinner Jacket?
A dinner jacket (or tuxedo, if you’re watching American films) is a formal evening jacket, traditionally worn with matching trousers as part of black tie attire.
Dinner jackets usually come in only two colours: classic black or midnight blue. Their defining features include:
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Satin or grosgrain facings on the lapels, buttons, and trouser seams.
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Single-breasted construction (double-breasted versions exist but are far less common).
The simplicity of the design is precisely what makes it so enduring.
The History of the Dinner Jacket
The tailcoat was the standard for evening formal wear until the mid-19th century. The trouble was, it wasn’t that comfortable. Men wanted something less rigid but still refined.
The breakthrough came in 1865, when the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) commissioned a short evening coat from his Savile Row tailor, Henry Poole & Co. He wore it at informal dinners at Sandringham, and it quickly became fashionable among the British elite. This was the birth of the dinner jacket.
By the 1880s, the style had crossed the Atlantic. Members of New York’s exclusive Tuxedo Club began adopting the look, and the garment took on the American name “tuxedo.”
Over time, the dinner jacket gradually replaced the tailcoat for most evening occasions. Today, tailcoats are reserved only for the most formal of white tie events, while the dinner jacket stands as the enduring cornerstone of black tie dress.
Dinner Jacket vs. Tuxedo vs. Suit
To be clear: a dinner jacket and a tuxedo are the same garment, known by different names. “Dinner jacket” is used in the UK and much of the English-speaking world, while “tuxedo” is firmly American.
A dinner jacket is not the same as a suit. The difference lies in purpose and detail:
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Dinner jackets are reserved for evening formal occasions—typically black tie events.
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Suits are far more versatile, suitable for business, daytime wear, and a wide range of social settings.
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Key distinction: dinner jackets use satin or grosgrain facings on lapels and buttons, giving them their unmistakable sheen.
When to Wear a Dinner Jacket
Dinner jackets will be worn to very formal events. So, formal dinners (often business meetings and charity events), weddings, and anything defined as a black tie event.
White tie events - far rarer - are more formal than black tie events. With white tie, you’ll be wearing a black tailcoat, and a white bow tie. However, white tie is for the most formal events. These are occasions like state banquets or royal ceremonies. Unless specified, assume “black tie” means a dinner jacket.
If you don’t want to overdress/underdress then always look at the invitation for the event. It’ll normally say the dress code. If you’re unsure, always ask the event organiser.
How to Style a Dinner Jacket
The power of a dinner jacket lies in its restraint. To wear one well:
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Shirt: Always white. Preferably with pleats or a marcella front.
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Tie: A black bow tie is standard. Only rarely is a standard tie acceptable—and then it should be plain black or dark navy.
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Shoes: Black patent leather or polished Oxfords. Never compromise here.
Optional accessories can elevate your look further:
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Cummerbund: Traditionally black silk, used to cover the waistband and streamline the silhouette.
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Pocket square: Usually white, neatly folded. Adds polish without fuss.
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Shirt studs: Decorative alternatives to shirt buttons, often in onyx or mother-of-pearl.
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Cufflinks: A subtle way to inject personality, though formality should guide your choice.
Buying vs. Hiring a Dinner Jacket
If you’re planning on attending just one or two events, it makes no sense to buy a dinner jacket. They’re expensive. Hire instead. It is much more cost-effective. So, if you’re attending a wedding, etc. and you won’t need a dinner jacket beyond that, just hire one.
Dinner Jackets 101
For nearly two centuries, the dinner jacket has stood as a symbol of understated elegance. When the occasion calls for formality, nothing replaces it. With the right fit and accessories, it never fails to impress.
If you’re looking for a dinner jacket for a one-off event, Rathbones has you covered. Our expertise lies in matching clients with the perfect fit—so you can step into any event with confidence.